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An English Edwardian Golfing Retreat

Writer's picture: Alan TaitAlan Tait




It was a trip down memory lane in late November, as my recent travels took me across the border to Northumberland when I visited Slaley Hall Hotel Spa and Golf Resort, part of the QHotels Collection. Girlfriend Elaine who is based in Germany, was in Scotland for a few weeks and would make the trip with me. Where there’s a spa and golf course, there’s a Lainey!!


I had to pinch myself when I realised it was more than a quarter of a century since I last played there, when I teed it up in the 1997 European Tour’s Grand Prix Tournament. My one and only year on Tour with the big boys was not a successful one, however Slaley was one of the few tournaments I did make the cut and played all 4 rounds. I’d love to tell you my prize cheque was life changing, but from memory I think it paid for a few nights in a caravan in Blackpool that Autumn! Great fun all the same.


The hotel is an Edwardian mansion house in England’s North East and just 24 miles from Newcastle. It boasts a luxury spa, 2 PGA Championship golf courses, 3 restaurants and wonderful views of the countryside, many of which have golf course views. In its peaceful surroundings, Slaley Hall ticks all the boxes for a relaxing stay away from everyday work and bustling cities. For the more adventurous however, there’s loads of outdoor activities such as off-road driving, quad biking, archery, clay pigeon shooting, segways and a fully equipped gym. As well as beautiful woodland walks and cycling routes, let’s just say “there’s something for everyone at Slaley”!



We made the 2.5 hour journey from Edinburgh, which in itself takes you through some stunning countryside of both Scotland and England. We were so lucky as the hills were all glistening in white frost against perfectly blue skies and bright sun. A beautiful winter setting in wonderful surroundings.


Although it was now into the winter months I was still keen to get the woolly hat on and get out there for a few holes, but not after a wee winter warmer soup on arrival to see us on our way. We arrived lunchtime so decided to check in later after our venture on the golf course.  The delightfully casual Claret Jug was our choice for a snack and proved an ideal choice. Offering a range of local dishes and refreshing drinks, there is something for everyone appealing to golfers, sport lovers and families wanting pub classics and snacks throughout the day and evening. Overlooking the golf course, it’s an ideal setting. We didn’t want to overload tummies as we were already looking forward to dinner in the evening! So a snack of red pepper and tomato soup, accompanied with some BBQ chicken wings was perfect to send a wee glow through us before heading out to the course.



As we made our way through the hotel to the golf course, we passed through “Tommy Craig’s Bar” which was temporarily closed due to a winter refurbishment. The bar is a perfect hang out and acts more like a sports bar offering pub games such as pool and table tennis, with all live sport on the surrounding TV’s. A wide variety of soft and alcoholic drinks are available, as well as great bar snacks.



First thing I noticed as we approached The Hunting Course was that all the full greens were in play which was a pleasant and refreshing surprise. The greens are all of USGA standard which is a huge benefit. My own opinion is that venues around the country can be a little “over protective” in the winter months with their courses. As long as there’s not hundreds of golfers playing every day ( which is unlikely in winter anyway ), a little bit of frost on the greens makes minimal impact and causes very little damage. Saying that, I know plenty of greenkeepers around the land will be screaming at me as they read this!!



There are 2 courses at Slaley. The Dave Thomas designed Hunting Course is described as the “Augusta of the North” and is among the finest in Northumberland, with its own version of Amen Corner. Meanwhile, the more forgiving Priestman Course offers wonderful panoramic views of the Tyne Valley and was designed by former Ryder Cup player Neil Coles. Both accommodate all levels of golfers and are ideal for visiting parties as well as residential groups and couples.



Given it was almost December, the courses were in very good condition and was really enjoyable playing in the winter white crisp conditions. My highlight was at the par 3 15th hole.  At 198 yards hitting over water, it’s not for the faint hearted. Although on line and with a decent ball flight, I caught my 6 iron a fraction heavy and only cleared the water with a few yards to spare. However one big high bounce off the hard frosted fairways, my ball jumped onto the green and finished 10 feet from the hole. I think it’s safe to say that under “normal playing conditions”, the result might not have been the same!




I love the 18th hole at The Hunting. Stroke 1 at 444 yards from the medal tee, it’s in real danger of sending you to lunch with a heavy heart if you are not careful. Uphill all the way it plays longer than its yardage, and there’s trouble everywhere as the fairway is guarded on both sides with a heavy forest of trees. If that’s not enough, a burn meanders its way through the middle of the fairway before you reach the elevated green which sits in a fantastic location in front of the hotel. A superb finishing hole which for most will play as a par 5. We got finished just in time as the light was fading and the temperature rapidly dropping. So much so, I now have double headgear on. I’m only too aware that a baseball cap on top of a woolly hat, is not a good look!!



Time to check in, and reception area is lovely at Slaley. Up a few stairs to a warm and welcoming surrounding, which on this occasion was even more special with the Christmas tree and decorations in place.



I’m so lucky that on familiarisation trips when working for Golfbreaks, the hotel and the team like to showcase the very best they have to offer and we were assigned the beautiful Ladywell Suite. A stunning Edwardian large room in a very quiet wing of the hotel. Spoiled I know. As part of my visit though it’s important to see all the accommodation, and Slaley offer all different room types at different price points. Classic, family, feature, superior rooms are all available, as well as stunning suites. All are beautifully furnished, warm and comfortable.




After check in it was time to visit Elaine’s favourite place. The spa! Robes are provided in the bedrooms and feel free to make your way through the hotel corridors to the hotel’s relaxation retreat, which has it all. 20 metre heated indoor pool, jacuzzi, sauna, steam room, relaxation room and 9 treatment rooms. Qualified therapists are on site to spoil you with a variety of facials, rituals and full body massages complete with quality ELEMIS products. The indoor pool is a lovely area to sit and just chill. It even has its own drinks bar where you can purchase a cold beer or a refreshing prosecco ( in plastic glasses of course ), as you relax at poolside. This was my favourite bit!!



Feeling refreshed after our relaxing swim our choice for dinner was the main restaurant Hadrian’s, aptly named after the famous Hadrians Wall. An iconic UK landmark which was built under the command of Emperor Hadrian who travelled extensively across his Empire, making improvements to its defences and consolidating its borders. When the Romans arrived, Britain was home to numerous warring tribes. Some romantics think it was to divide the Scots from the English, however not quite the case.

 

Dinner was superb with a lovely ambience and atmosphere in the restaurant. Staff were all attentive, warm and welcoming. Be warned though if you are not partial to spice or food on the slightly hot side. Chef has a passion for chilli!! I’m a bit on the soft side when it comes to spice, so for a starter I enjoyed the duck liver parfait and Elaine ventured for the salt and pepper squid with the chilli and coriander mayonnaise. I’ve never once heard her admit her food is too hot, but couldn’t help smile to myself as she regularly wiped a few beads of sweat from her brow throughout !! The fillet of seabass and butterfly chicken for mains, were both excellent and full of flavours. We shared ice cream and truffles to finish and only had to stop myself from licking the bowl!

 


Last thing to cap off our evening was a final drink in the whiskey snug and the nearby relaxed lounge areas. Slaley Hall is dog friendly and we bumped into two couples who had brought their beloved pooches. As a dog lover this made my night ( sorry Elaine ), and was the perfect end to the perfect day!



I’m not the world’s greatest sleeper but had the best night’s rest I’d had in a long time. The bed was fantastic and woke refreshed and ready to go for round 2 in Hadrian’s for breakfast! The hotel offers a hot and cold buffet selection and offerings are a plenty. As well as the traditional English Breakfast items, there’s a wide range of pastries, cold meats, fruit and different juices to choose from. Hadrian’s is in a nice spot in the hotel overlooking the outside patio area and onto the golf course. We hadn’t seen this the previous evening as it was dark. It really is a beautiful setting and I imagined myself 8 months later and 27 degrees warmer, sitting outside in the sunshine with my shorts on enjoying a good old slap up Slaley breakfast!.

 


After a lovely stay and seeing everything that Slaley Hall has to offer it was time to head back north, but not before I caught up with Director of Golf Jonny Mould. Jonny was previously Head of Golf at The George Washington Golf Club in Newcastle and moved to Slaley in 2015. Was great to catch up with him and was during our chat he revealed that after 9 happy years at Slaley he was moving on in the New Year to take up a new post as Golf Manager at Riyadh in Saudi Arabia. As I scraped the frost off my car 15 minutes later, I couldn’t possibly think why he had made that decision!!! Jonny will be a big miss in the north east of England, but no doubt he will do a fantastic job in the desert and will certainly enjoy the sunshine! Myself and everyone at Golfbreaks wishes him well!



As we drove down the winding driveway of the hotel to make the journey to Edinburgh, I had a final thought of my last visit in 1997, 27 years ago. Gosh, times flies when you’re having fun!

 


To book a trip to Slaley Hall or any other Golfbreaks venues, I’ll be delighted to help you plan your trip. Please contact me at ATait@golfbreaks.com    



Preferred golf clothing brands:


Glenmuir - www.glenmuir.com  Sunderland of Scotland -www.glenmuir.com/Sunderland 

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